Whole-house wet systems, retrofit low-profile overlays, and electric heating mats for bathrooms and kitchens — designed for low flow temperatures, perfectly balanced, and ready for heat pumps and modern A-rated boilers from day one.
Heat-pump-ready design · Manufacturer-trained · 25-year pipe warranty
Underfloor heating (UFH) delivers low-flow-temperature heat through pipes (wet systems) or electric heating elements embedded in the floor. The whole floor becomes the emitter, giving even radiant warmth with no cold spots and no radiators on the wall.
Anyone building, extending or fully refurbishing; homeowners pairing UFH with a heat pump (UFH is the ideal low-temperature emitter); families fitting solid wood, tile or polished concrete floors; and bathroom or kitchen refurb owners wanting a warm tiled floor under bare feet.
During new-build first-fix, during extensions (existing floor lifted), during a major refurbishment, during a kitchen or bathroom replacement, or when fitting a heat pump and the existing radiators are too small.
Radiators heat a room by convection — hot air rises, cold air falls, dust circulates and the top of the room is always 2–3°C warmer than your feet. UFH heats by radiation — every surface is the same temperature, the room feels warmer at a lower air temperature, and the system runs at flow temperatures heat pumps love (35–40°C).
UFH is hidden under the floor. Mistakes are buried for the next 25 years. Here's what goes wrong with poor installs:
Without proper CAD design and pipe spacing calculations, some rooms run cold while others overheat — and there's no fixing it without lifting the floor.
Untested manifolds, kinked pipes during screeding, missing pressure tests during construction — these turn into leaks under £200 m² of stone tiling.
UFH designed for 55°C gas-boiler operation cripples a heat pump. Pipe spacing must be tighter, manifolds matched, and zoning rethought. Most DIY/cheap installers don't know this.
Wrong floor build-up (no insulation under the screed, wrong screed depth, wrong floor finish) means the room takes 4 hours to warm up instead of 45 minutes.
Electric UFH installed without proper RCD protection, undersized cable or unsealed terminations is a fire and shock risk — and unlawful.
DIY kits look cheap until the first leak, the first cold spot, or the first cracked tile. There is no warranty on a self-installed system.
UFH on a poorly insulated floor can never out-pace the heat loss. We always specify insulation and floor build-up as part of the design.
An unbalanced manifold sends most of the flow to the easiest loop and starves the rest. We balance every zone with a flow meter on commissioning day.
We inspect the substrate (concrete, joisted, screed), measure floor heights, agree the floor finish and check insulation. Heat loss calculated per room.
You get a full pipe-layout drawing per room, pipe centres, loop lengths, manifold position and zone strategy — alongside a fixed-price quote.
Insulation board (PIR or EPS), edge expansion strip, pipe clipped to design centres, manifold mounted, full pressure test held at 6 bar.
Liquid screed or 18 mm low-profile overlay poured by approved partner. After cure, we connect manifold, fit actuators, wire controls and run leak/pressure test again.
Slow warm-up curve to protect screed, then full flow-balance, individual zone test, smart thermostat pairing, and a 25-year pipe warranty registration.
No cold floors, no hot ceilings, no draughts. Comfortable at 19°C instead of 21°C — saving 6–10% on heating bills.
Designed for 35–40°C flow temperatures, UFH unlocks the best COP from any ASHP — a 20% efficiency gain over upsized radiators alone.
No radiators. Furniture goes where you want it. Kitchens and bathrooms in particular look cleaner.
No banging pipes, no clicking valves, no airlocks. UFH runs invisibly and silently.
Radiation rather than convection means less dust circulation — a real benefit for asthma and allergy sufferers.
Electric UFH in bathrooms warms a tiled floor in 30 minutes. The single most-loved upgrade in any refurb.
Underfloor heating is a system, not a product. The design choices that matter:
Wet (hydronic) systems are the only choice for whole-house heating: low running cost, paired with boiler or heat pump, with 25-year pipe warranties. Electric mat systems suit small rooms (bathroom, kitchen, en-suite) where running cost is small but installation simplicity matters.
Anhydrite liquid screed (50–60 mm) gives the best heat transfer and self-levels — ideal for new builds and extensions. Sand-cement screed (75 mm) is more traditional and forgiving. Low-profile overlay boards (18–22 mm) are the retrofit choice when floor height is restricted — we use a network of approved partners for screeding.
Stone and porcelain tile: best (highest thermal conductivity). Engineered timber: very good (max 18 mm, low TOG underlay). Solid wood: workable but slower. Thick carpet (>1.5 TOG total): not recommended — it insulates the heat from reaching the room.
Standard pipe centres are 150 mm; we tighten to 100 mm in bathrooms and around external walls for higher heat output. Every room is a separately zoned loop with its own thermostat — true room-by-room control, not whole-floor compromise.
With a heat pump the manifold runs at 35–40°C, weather compensated. With a boiler we recommend a low-loss header or blending valve to drop boiler flow to 50°C. We design both — and futureproof boiler installs so the heat-pump upgrade is plug-in-ready.
Wired or wireless smart thermostats per zone (we install Heatmiser Neo, Honeywell Evohome and Polypipe Vario). Geofencing, schedules and per-room temperature in your hand. All systems are OpenTherm or modbus ready for future smart-home integration.
Genuine project photography from across the North East — no stock imagery, no embellishment.
Full room-by-room design before you pay a penny. Heat-pump-ready. 25-year pipe warranty. Manufacturer-trained engineers — no DIY pitfalls.
Gas-Safe registered (214402) · Fully insured (£5m public liability) · 12-month workmanship guarantee
